The most well-known research about this is the data presented by an Allied research group studying German tank wrecks all over Normandy and the Bulge to a smaller degreee. While doing his run he was likely under fire from AA it's easy to see how the high number of kill claims developed. Add on this that regardless of the status of tank the area around the tank was smoking/burning due to the impact of the bombs. Imagine a pilot strafing a German tank and shooting his rockets which all land next to or even on the tank, he will obviously assume the tank is destroyed but in all likelihood, his best chance on a kill would be the German crew bailing out due to fear. The pilots while being in a very high-pressure situation had only a very short amount of time to evaluate the possible damage. This resulted in massive kill claims of Allied pilots which then resulted in a warped perception of the effectiveness of aircrafts acting in anti tank duty. As a pilot it was extremely difficult to assess the damage their weapons did to the vehicle they targeted, even bombs landing close to a tank maybe didn't even damage the tank significantly. This was mostly due to heavy over claiming of the pilots. The effects of the anti-tank capabilities of fighter-bombers were overstated shortly after the war. I assume you are mostly talking about Allied fighter-bombers attacking German vehicles on the west front so I will focus my answer on that. Gooderson thus concludes that close air support might not always have been successful in destroying targets, but was highly effective at neutralising them. They had great difficulty in preventing the inexperienced men from baling out when our aircraft attacked." "The experienced crews stated that when attacked from the air they remained in their tanks which had no more than superficial damage (cannon strikes or near misses from bombs). The psychological effect upon crew could also be considerable, especially inexperienced soldiers from questioning prisoners of war: By destroying supply vehicles tanks were starved of fuel and ammunition, in mixed columns roads were blocked, contributory factors in the tanks being abandoned. To soft-skin motor transport, though, they were far more dangerous several hundred lorries, cars and motorcycles in the Falaise Pocket were destroyed by rockets, bombs and aircraft cannon and machine guns. In terms of direct effectiveness against tanks, then, fighter-bombers had a rather poor record the rockets were inaccurate and required a direct hit to be effective. At the Falaise Pocket in August 1944, for example, the 2nd Tactical Air Force and 9th Air Force claimed over 400 armoured targets destroyed the ORS examined three areas and classified 35 tanks and SP guns as aircraft kills, 16 as ground kills and 304 abandoned or destroyed by their crew. In all cases armoured vehicle losses positively identified as being caused by air attack were lower than those that were abandoned or destroyed by their own crews. Gooderson then examines several examples from the Normandy campaign in which RAF Typhoons and USAAF Thunderbolts were credited with large numbers of German tank kills, referring to reports by British Army Operational Research Sections (ORS) that investigated battlefields and attempted to classify actual losses and causes. With no return fire, against a clearly identified and stationary target only three of the 64 rockets hit the target. They were not very accuracte, though Ian Gooderson's thesis Allied Close Air Support 1943-1945 includes a section "Allied Fighter-Bombers Versus German Armoured Forces: Myths and Realities" that outlines a test carried out by eight Typhoons with eight rockets each against a captured Panther tank. The RAF turned instead to 60lb RP-3 rocket projectiles, primarily carried by Typhoons, as a more versatile weapon, packing a greater punch against the increasing armour of German tanks and not encumbering aircraft once fired. The RAF employed the Hurricane Mk IID and IV with 40mm Vickers 'S' guns in the desert in 1942, and these were accurate and effective, but the Hurricanes were highly vulnerable to ground fire and were withdrawn from European service prior to D-Day.
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Abgesehen von der Lärmbelastung geht durch den Lüfter soviel Wärme nach außen verloren, dass der Ofen nicht die angegebene Maximaltemperatur erreicht.įazit: Wer sich an den beschriebenen Schwächen nicht stört, bekommt für kleines Geld ziemlich viel Ofen und kann damit vor allem die Küche gut heizen. Dafür wird das äußere Gehäuse sehr heiß und zusätzlich wird durch den Lüfter ständig heiße Luft an der Rückseite nach außen geblasen - hier sollte man unbedingt viel Abstand nach hinten einplanen! Dieser Lüfter hat nichts mit der Umluft zu tun, vermutlich soll er ein Überhitzen des Gehäuses verhindern, da der Backraum offensichtlich nicht isoliert ist. Die Temperatur kann man theoretisch auf einer Skala von 90 bis 230 Grad einstellen, aber beide Werte haben nichts mit der Realität zu tun! Ich habe nachgemessen: mit eingeschalteter Ober- und Unterhitze heizt der Ofen schon bei niedrigster Einstellung auf 150 Grad auf, während bei Maximaleinstellung auch nach einer halben Stunde nur 210 Grad erreicht werden. Die Drehknöpfe sind übrigens aus verchromtem Kunststoff, was billig wirkt und nicht so recht zur ansonsten soliden Anmutung des Ofens passen will. der Drehspieß und die Umluft ein- und ausschalten. Über drei weitere Drehknöpfe lassen sich: 1. 60 Minuten schaltet der Timer den Ofen komplett ab. Dabei springt sofort ein recht lauter Lüfter an, der immer mitläuft, auch wenn sonst nichts eingeschaltet ist. Zum Einschalten muss in jedem Fall der Timer betätigt werden, das ist ein Drehknopf mit mechanischer Aufziehfunktion. Negativ: Temperatur kaum regulierbar, angegebene Maximaltemperatur wird nicht erreicht, sehr laut im Betrieb, sehr heiße Abluft auf der Rückseite, Backraum nicht isoliert, kurzer Timer.īeschreibung: Der Ofen macht auf den ersten Blick ganz schön was her und gefällt durch ansprechendes, klares Design sowie einen sehr großen Backraum und mehrere sinnvolle Zubehörteile. Levertijd onbekend Inklappen geen shopreviews Be Commerce Marketplace t/m 5 dagen Meer informatie 32,95 Bekijk product Prijsinformatie van bol. neutraliseert onaangename geuren netheid zonder. Very handy when it heats up.Positiv: Gefällige Optik, großer Backraum, doppelt verglaste Tür, Innenbeleuchtung, nützliches Zubehör, Verarbeitung passabel. Mobiele, handbediende stoomreiniger van Trebs Ideaal voor het stomen en reinigen van kleding, beddengoed en gordijnen. The non-slip feet keep the Trebs Mini Pancake Maker 99260 Comfortbakery firmly in place. 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The Trebs Mini Pancake Maker 99260 Comfortbakery eliminates the need for a special pan for making mini pancakes. It may need a few coats, but it's darned good stuff. Is your neighb?Ī simpler possible solution - if the water ever stops coming through - is to use a good quality cementous tanking slurry on your wall, from a few inches on to the floor up to the ground level outside. If you promise to do a neat job, then he might even see it as an improvement on what he has - a proper drain to take his surface water away. If your wall is right on the boundary line, then I'm not sure what you can do unless your neighb is a normal person and would be happy to allow you to do something similar, perhaps covering it with a grate. The other crack is in a corner where the. #Water in garage after heavy rain crackedIs your wall exactly on the boundary line, or a few inches in from it? If the latter, then you might be able to oblige your neighb to allow you to excavate a trench along your wall and adding a membrane or some other solution to your problem. The leaks are coming from the subterranean section - one leak, which is a slow seep and only comes through during torrential rain, is through a small section of worm concrete thats cracked and has exposed the reo - the section is about a foot long but the water comes through a a fissure in the centre. Your wall must be pretty darned good if it ain't wet all the way the full 4'. I wonder if the reason the water comes in under the DPC is 'cos there's a gap there - between the DPC and the cement layer under it (assuming the builder bedded it in mortar.) #Water in garage after heavy rain how toThe water is clean and does not come from a broken downpipe / gutter as there are none on that side of the garage, I assume it must be the run off from surface water as the back garden suffers from water logging.Īny ideas on how to fix this? I was thinking of maybe raising the floor level with concrete, but I don't know if this would just push the water above the DPC and make things worse. One of the previous owners has dug holes inside the garage to let the water drain under the garage, but when we have lots of rain this is not enough to stop the rest of the garage floor getting wet. The water comes in through the brick work under the DPC which is 1 brick high from the base level. Their property is about 4 ft higher then the level of the garage as we live on a hill. When we get heavy rain, water runs down Halton road like a river and when. There is no access to the outside the garage as this connects to my neighbours property (pathway to the side of their house). Sent to Lincolnshire County Council less than a minute later. From what I understand it has always had water leaking (pouring sometimes) into the garage whenever it rains. The brick garage is attached to the house and was built in 1975. |
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